IN THE ENCHANTED GARDENS

A Stranger’s First Impressions of California in Mid-Winter
A correspondent of the Chicago Tribune writing from Ocean View, Santa Cruz county, under date of December 25th, gives the following interesting account of his observations : We left Illinois on the 8th of November last. A few feathery flakes of snow were falling, reminding us of the approach of the Ice King. We reached San Francisco on Wednesday, the 15th, having spent the Sabbath at Salt Lake City. We had a most delightful trip across the continent. After a short sojourn in the city, we took the Southern Pacific Railroad, and, after a three hours ride, found ourselves in San .lose, Santa Clara county, fifty miles south of the city. This county is one of the finest of the State, and this valley one of the loveliest of earth. It is rimmed about by grand old mountains, whose lofty peaks were picturesque and beautiful in their varied outline. Mount Hamilton lifts his head majestically above the rest, his brow vailed by the floating clouds. Hamilton is the highest of the mountains of the South Range. On his crest is located the Lick Observatory, which will contain the largest telescope in the world. This observatory Is founded by a munificent bequest in the will of the late James Lick, who was one of California’s most wealthy citizens. SANTA CLARA VALLEY Possesses a rich, fertile soil, and is in a high state of culture. Here grow the orange, almond, pomegranate, lemon, apple, pear, quince and grape. The grapes are of the finest varieties, and the most luscious I ever tasted. In short, all of the semi-tropical fruits grow here. The ranches or farms also produce all of the cereals abundantly and without irrigation. These ranches are beautiful and picturesque with the live oaks, which the residents have wisely spared from the ax. They are proud old trees, some of them centuries old. They are always green, and their wide-spread-ing boughs invite to repose beneath their refreshing shade. These trees abound everywhere in the State, and stretch away through the valleys like a boundless orchard. The climate of this valley is one of eternal Spring. Roses, geraniums, and many other flowers bloom here the year round. In the summer the thermometer rarely exceeds 85 degrees, and in Winter seldom falls to the freezing point. San Jose is the county seat, and is a beautiful city, its population is about 15,000. Santa Clara is a fine little city three miles distant, and has a population of about 3,000. These two towns are connected by THE FAR-FAMED ALAMEDA This fine avenue was laid out by the ancient Jesuits. They planted willow trees the whole length of the road. These trees are grand and venerable with years. They are a century old, and are gnarled, wrinkled and gray with age. The hands that planted them long since have turned into dust. Along this fine avenue the street-cars are constantly rumbling, and it is one of the finest drives in the world. At San Jose are located the State Normal School and the University of the Pacific. The latter is the methodist College of the Far West, and is a quarter of a century old. New buildings have been erected in the most approved style of architecture. They are located adjoining the Alameda: The College building is a very fine edifice. The building of the State Normal School, in style, beauty and capacity, probably exceeds those of the Eastern States. California does eveything on a large scale. Almost every day since my arrival iu California I have met former citizens of Illinois. Our great State is a busy hive, constantly swarming settlers for the Pacific coast. Among those I may name my late Rockford neighbor and distinguished Illinoisan, the Hon. Anson S. Miller ; Prof. James N. Martin, formerly of Rock River Seminary, now of the university of the Pacific ; and Prof. Henry Norton of the State Normal School. In my boyhood days I recited to Prof. Martin my Latin and Greek. He is now Professor of Ancient Languages, and an eminent teacher in the University. On meeting the Professor, he LAID AN EMBARGO UPON OUR TRUNKS, Took possession of myself and wife, and domiciled us with his kind family in Ladies’ Hall of the University. With them on Thanksgiving Day we partook of a most bountiful dinner. Turkey and the wild game of California, and all the various dishes that tempt the appetite of the epicure, including California’s most luscious fruits, were upon the table. The poor hoys of the institution were at the table with us, invited by Mrs. Martin, an act of her great, kind heart. Professor Norton is Professor of Natural Science In the State Normal. He is surrounded by the finest of apparatus, and has every artificial aid to assist him in the grand field in which he labors. On the 1st of December we left San Jose for a short sojourn on the Santa Cruz mountains at the Hotel de Redwood, some twenty-five miles distant. I secured an outside passage on the stage for myself and wife. We mounted up by the side of the driver, and had the grandest, most exciting ride of our lives. Our coach was drawn by six fine horses. Our driver, George Colgrove, was one of the owners of the line. We found him an intelligent, courteous gentleman, and admirably did he manage his coach and six. Ten miles of our ride was among the mountains. After passing Los Gatos, at the foothills, we commenced the ascent of the mountain. UPWARD TOWARD THE CLOUDS For ten miles our steeds continued to climb. When near the backbone or divide of the range the scenery was unusually grand. As we wound along the mountain crest we made arcs, half-circles and ovals in our serpentine course. We looked down upon the tall tree-tops, upon huge bowlders torn from the mountain side, upon splintered rocks, deep gorges and wild chasms; and below all the laughing, dancing mountain stream sparkled in merriment. At Patchen we were met by Judge Miller. He insisted we should become his guests; hence with his kind family we share the joys, pleasures and grand scenery of this beautiful mountain home. My almanac tells me it is Winter. The beautiful scenery that greets my vision tells me it is Spring. A carpet of green clothes the hillside. The flowers are in bloom. The bees and butterflies are vying with each other for the sweets of the blossoms. The meadow larks and other birds are singing. No fire in our house. The windows are up and the doors open. Thermometer stands at 80°. We were awakened this morning by the. MUSICAL, WINGS OF THE HUMMINGBIRDS, Sipping nectar from the roses and fuchsias beneath our bedroom window. Truly, this is wonderful ! Judge Miller came here last year for the health of his wife, and by an advantageous purchase secured for himself and sons a splendid mountain ranch or farm of 500 or 600 acres of rich land, well wooded and watered, and admirably located between the cities of San Jose,  Santa Cruz , fifty miles from San Francisco. on the Santa Crux mountains overlooking the Pacific. From our mountain home we have the finest view 1 ever witnessed. East, north and west the mountains lift their heads in sublime grandeur. Peak towers above peek, but old Loma Prieta looks down in majesty upon the rest. This mountain in form in a truncated cone. It is the third in hight of this range, In a southwest direction we look out upon old Pacific. For miles and miles away we gaze upon its broad bosom shimmering in the sun, its furthest limit melting into the blue of the sky. South we look upon the Bay of Monterey, which resembles a great, placid lake. Beyond the bay we see the mountain range that borders it. Below us, seemingly almost at our feet, we look upon the city of Santa Cruz, a beautiful town of 5000 inhabitants, the NEWPORT OF THE PACIFIC SLOPE A few miles to the left of Santa Cruz the town of Soquel is plainly visible. Between Santa Cruz and our home we look down upon the tops of giant red woods (Sequoia sempervirens). These trees are mammoths, next in size to the Mariposa big trees (Sequoia gigantea). They grow from 200 to .100 feet in height and from 10 to 20 feet in diameter. Oh, what a grand view of unsurpassing magnificence a fine combination of the beauty and sublimity of mountain and ocean scenery! The Judge’s home is appropriately called “Ocean View,” from which steamers, sail vessels, light houses and railway trains on tiie coast can he seen. The farm abounds in valuable improvements, dwelling-houses, and out-buildings, stock-yards and sheds, plow-lands for wheat, corn, barley and other grains, which yield well, an orchard of many kinds of choice fruitage, semi-tropical and otherwise, and a vineyard of twelve or fifteen acres, in full bearing, of the best European varieties of table ami raisin grapes, yielding many tons annually. These mountain ranches far surpass those of the valley for fruit. Here fruit is a surer crop and more luscious to the taste. The mountain fruit always commands a better price in the market than that of the valley. THE CLIMATE OF THE MOUNTAINS IN WINTER Is warmer and the air more balmy than in the valley. No frost has yet appeared, while in the valley it has withered the tomato vines and the more tender of the flowers. Here our tomato vines are fresh and green, and are growing finely. They are full of blossoms and ripe fruit—-a strange sight to us. The valley is subject to more or less of fog that rolls in from San Francisco bay. Here fog very seldom appears. It is a grand sight in the morning to look down upon the clouds that hang above the valley. As the sun rises they look like great sunlit billows or a mighty ocean lashed into a foam by some furious storm. The mountain peaks that appear above the clouds look like islands; but as the sun rises higher those clouds gradually float away and leave us the grand old ocean instead to gaze upon. Why the climate should be milder at this elevation has puzzled scientists. It is generally believed that this range lies in the course of a warm current of air from the ocean, and that this causes the mildness of the climate. NO IRRIGATION IS REQUIRED For grain or fruit, except strawberries, which, to procure a crop every month, require irrigation. Game is here abundant. Deer frequently visit the Judge’s ranch. Foxes are numerous and trouble the fowls. The Judge a few weeks ago saw a mountain lion (puma) walking leisurely through the vineyard. Last fall a grizzly bear killed a man about ten miles distant. A fortnight since another man in the same neighborhood was severely wounded by one. i The quails are very abundant; whole I bevies of them come flocking about the house. They appropriate the Judge’s vineyard and get very fat on his large, luscious grapes. They are a most beautiful bird. In a flock together upon the ground they look like little troopers. Their uniform is between a blue and a brown in color. A beautiful plume nods on their heads, as soldierly they march along. Pigeons are plentiful. They are larger than ours, darker in plumage, with a white ring about the neck. Geese and ducks are numerous. Eagles at any time during the day may be seen soaring majestically in circles above the valley. The followers of Nimrod and Izaak Walton may here pursue their avocations with wonderful success. The dry, oxygenized air of the mountains is soothing to the sore lungs of the consumptive. Many of these mountaineers FLED FROM DEATH IN THE EASTERN STATES, And here are buoyant with health. Mr. Spaulsberry, the nearest neighbor of the Judge, came here from Michigan, wasted to a skeleton by disease of the lungs. A lawyer by profession, he was forced to abandon the practice. During the past Summer he and his wife camped out on these mountains. His wife, a noble women, tenderly cared for him. In the morning of each day she would with one hand carry the gun and with the other support his tottering steps in their mountain rambles. In these walks she killed an abundance of game, and, by that skill known to the good house-wife, prepared it delicate and tempting for the fastidious appetite. Thus, living out-doors in such a dry, life-giving air, basking in such a blessed sunshine, and strengthened by such nutritious food, he improved rapidly every day. His cough finally left him, and now, to all appearance, he he is a stout well man. With his own hands (having had but little help) he put up, within the last two months, a pleasant little cottage on a tract of ten acres he had purchased. The house cost him hut $500, has five rooms and a pretty bay window. He intends planting his little ranch in fruit. One day this week he caught in the Soquel (our mountain brook) over 200 trout. Many consumptives defer their coming to this climate until it is too late. The long, wearisome journey and loss of home and its comforts but hasten their death, and they fall away from home and their loved ones. No consumptive should leave home for a change of climate without the advice of some skilled physician. Land up on these mountains ranges in value from $l5 to $3O per acre; and in the Santa Clara valley from $3O to $3OO per acre, according to quality, location and improvements.

San Jose weekly Mercury, Volume XXIV, Number 45, page 1, 22 February 1877
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